Monday, May 24, 2010

A vegetarian birder's food experience in San Blas, Mexico and Puerto Vallarta

In late February I took a week's vacation to San Blas, Nayarit, via Puerto Vallarta. I went by myself, so I was responsible for finding suitable vegetarian foods for eating. I had been to Puerto Vallarta a couple years earlier and was particularly fond of Planeta Vegetariano, a long-standing and well-known buffet tucked behind the main church near the malecon.



The food is safe and good and very affordable and the ambiance is pleasant with brightly painted walls.



Below is the hot buffet for dinner, which always has beans and rice and a couple entrees



The cold buffet section has several salads.



Here are some more salad fixins



And there is always some nice fresh juice. The proprietors have photos of their Asian guru near the cash register, and also have a single madonna image, which the monks pictured below it seem to find humorous.



When you stop eating, the friendly staff will bring you a dessert such as this coffee cake.



Once arriving in San Blas, I had only a few restaurants to chose from. My bungalow held an info binder suggesting some places to eat, mostly the same ones mentioned in travel books that include San Blas (some don't cover the town at all). The first one I tried was Wakame, the only Asian restaurant in town.



I asked the waitress what vegetarian food was available, not usually a problem at Chinese restaurants in the states. She suggested a broccoli chow mein.



This was a large serving and hot from the kitchen, but the noodles were plain spaghetti and they were just boiled, not fried. Not so good.

The next place I tried was Wala Wala, right near the plaza or zocalo.



The waiter here spoke good English, the ambiance was good and there was some interesting and apparently authentic Huichol art for sale. Some chips and salsa were nice.



My vegetarian enchiladas were not so good though. The veggies within seemed to be mainly frozen broccoli.



For my next meal I splurged and went to El Delfin, the expensive restaurant inside the expensive birding lodge Garza Canela. This restaurant has a Cordon Bleu trained chef and is considered one of the finest eateries in Mexico.



There was only one vegetarian offering on the menu, an excellent pear salad with gorgonzola, thin fried onions on top, circled by zucchini slices and cashews. I would eat this salad every day, no problem.



The next day I went to the beach where there is a row of palapa restaurants geared toward tourists. Seafood is the featured fixin' here, but I went with what would become my go-to selection for the rest of the trip: quesadillas. These were always the same simple corn tortillas with white cheese, but worked okay when spruced up with some salsa and guacamole and accompanied by cerveza.



Banana bread (pan de platano) is a traditional food in San Blas, but this stand



is said to have the finest in town in town including flavors such as pineapple and chocolate.

My next quesadilla experience was at La Isla restaurant (aka Tony's) that is usually considered the second best in town, but is clearly several steps below El Delfin.



La Isla is primarily a seafood restaurant as evidenced by the seashell decor.



The quesadillas and guacamole here were nothing special.



There is a restaurant in San Blas called McDonald's but it is not of the American fast food chain. The chips and guacamole here were pretty good and the quesadillas had a special Mexican cheese called panela which was a nice deviation from the norm.



Eventually, since I was having no digestional difficulties, I braved this eatery on the zocalo that was not mentioned in any of the literature.



The quesadillas themselves were typically simple, but there was no extra charge to dress them up with guacamole, carrots, beans, and a variety of salsas. Good deal!



My final meal was at the airport in Puerto Vallarta at the same restaurant I went to two years earlier while waiting for my flight. I got some veggie enchiladas and mozzarella sticks with a Coca-Cola Light. Maybe I'll be back again in a couple years....

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Pacific Golden-Plovers in Santa Cruz

On Friday, April 30th, after work I went to Terrace Point, out by UCSC's Long Marine Lab, to unwind and do some casual birding. Terrace Point is a good spot to sit and watch seabirds fly by. During spring migration, streams of loons fly north, with occasional flocks of Brant and scoters, along with gulls, cormorants, and pelicans. Plus, there is always a possibility of something more unusual. On this day, on the rocky shore below the bluffs, I noticed a shorebird which I first assumed to be the common Black-bellied Plover. But the bird was very golden in color and since it was spring, I thought maybe it could be a golden-plover. I had never seen a golden-plover before, but I knew they were smaller headed and smaller billed than Black-bellieds, in addition to usually being more golden in color.



Based on that, this bird seemed like a candidate for golden-plover. I didn't have a field guide with me, but I did have a camera, so I took some pictures and some video of the plover. I knew the key field mark to look for were the axillaries, the "wingpits" which on a Black-bellied would be black, but on a golden-plover would be gray. But birds don't often show their axillaries unless they fly. So I watched this bird for about 30 minutes, catching little glimpses of the wingpits, never seeing any black. Eventually, the bird took a long flight a stretched its wings up above its back giving me a brief but good look at the gray axillaries. This was a golden-plover! But what kind? Two species are possible in Santa Cruz, American which is much rarer and not likely at all in this habitat, and Pacific, the more likely, but they are tough to separate, and I had no experience with either. After consulting with field guides and some information in other books and online, I felt I had seen a Pacific Golden-Plover, which while not a mega-rarity, would be a lifer for me and a notable find. But I wasn't sure. So I worked on my photos and sent some to two local birding experts, with inconclusive results (the photos were not very good, see above). I emailed my birding friend Phil Brown that there was a possible Pacific Golden-Plover out there and went to bed.



The next morning before work, I went back there to try to get better photos, but the bird wasn't there, so off to work I went. But soon, I got emails from Phil from his iPhone that he was seeing the bird and all its pertinent field marks, so I posted to MBB, the local bird sightings email list. After work I went back and enjoyed the bird with Pete and Nancy and was able to see the key Pacific Golden-Plover field mark, the short primary projection, in their scope. I also got some slightly better photos such as the one above.

Sunday morning I went on a Santa Cruz Bird Club field trip to Quail Hollow Ranch led by Alex Rinkert, which was great, with several breeding bird species that I don't see near the coast. After trying for and "dipping" (British for not seeing) on Hermit Warbler at Kathy Kuyper's spot in Henry Cowell, I went back to the scene of my victory, Terrace Point. Alex and Kathy were there and soon Steve Gerow but no golden-plover. I did get to see streams of loons, a Red Phalarope, and some Bonaparte's Gulls.

Over the next couple days, quite a few birders saw and posted the golden-plover. Though it has only happened a couple times, I feel great when other birders "chase" and enjoy a bird first found by me, though Phil was the first to really ID this bird and David Suddjian confirmed the ID. Then, Steve posted that a second Pacific Golden-Plover had joined this first one. The original bird was determined to be a one-year-old just molting into breeding plumage, but the second bird was an adult in full, beautiful breeding plumage!



So, on Friday, May 7th, a week after my initial sighting, I returned to Terrace Point and spent an hour and a half with the two Pacific Golden-Plovers and trying to get some better pictures. The adult in breeding plumage is a strong candidate for the prettiest shorebird I have ever seen (with breeding plumage Red Phalaropes and maybe Red-necked Phalaropes being other strong candidates).



The image above shows the adult plover at top with its black frontparts, and the younger bird below with its golden-specked back. I hope these guys stick around all summer, pleasing me and any other birders who stop by to enjoy them.